1) That looks like the same jean cloth, the natural colour.
2) Not sure about the carded wool, you might be able to make it work. The key is it needs to be flat, and then you build up the layers in the areas where needed.
3) I used to use a faux ‘alpaca’ lining from WW and Company, but they stopped carrying it a while back, though it was a bit heavy for a civilian coat. There’s also Hart’s Fabric, which has a lovely silk / cotton sateen which is what I used for my double breasted frock coat. Link > http://www.hartsfabric.com/silk-cotton-fabric.html