Federal Enlisted Frock Coat

You’ve got a bit of sewing experience under your belt, but making a frock coat – that’s difficult, right?

While tailoring a federal enlisted frock coat can indeed be very challenging, I’m offering the chance to learn, from an experienced period tailor, every step of the tailoring process. My Federal Enlisted Frock Coat Workshop is an extremely thorough 12 module online course, containing almost 200 pages of clear photographs and written instructions, and supplemented by several videos. Together with individualized help through email and my online forum, you will have all the information and helpful tips necessary to construct an Enlisted Frock Coat.

Over the past five years I have created over 30 individual frock coats, all custom made for each person. During construction of each, I have taken copious notes documenting the process, and have striven to make each coat better than the last. I hope to pass that knowledge on to you before it is lost forever. By gaining this knowledge, you will help improve the accuracy of your clothing and living history portrayal. Tailoring is becoming a lost art, and I hope to keep it alive through instructing others.

This workshop is different than the typical workshop, in that it is run entirely online. This has some very good advantages. First, upon signing up, you can work at your own pace. If you are taking your time, there is no way to fall behind, since you are working in your own home on your own schedule.

Expect to put 100 to 150 hours into your frock coat. You can absolutely take your time and put in fewer hours per week. I know many of you have busy schedules and real life to work around. As you can see, holding the workshop online has the benefit of being spread out over a longer period of time. Imagine spending 200 hours at once in a ‘live’ workshop. That’s over a week, and don’t forget about what that would cost!

Workshop Syllabus

Module 1 – The Skeleton Baste

  • Skirt Fullness
  • Darts in the Skirt
  • Checklist before Cutting
  • Pattern Layout
  • Inlays
  • Cutting
  • Tacking
  • The Crooked Cut
  • Ironwork Fully Explained
  • Pressing Technique and Opening Seams
  • The Skeleton Baste

Module 2 – Pockets and Canvas

  • Fulling the Center Front
  • Darts
  • Tail Facings
  • Constructing the Body
  • Sidepiece to Forepart
  • The Skirt
  • The Back
  • Drafting and Constructing the Pleat Pockets
  • The Canvas
  • Basting in the Canvas

Module 3 – Lining and Collar

  • The Forward Fitting
  • Cutting the Lining
  • Assembling the Lining
  • Quilting the Lining
  • Inserting the Lining
  • Pleat Buttons
  • Shoulder Seams
  • Center Back Seam
  • The Back Vent
  • Drafting the Collar
  • Constructing the Collar
  • Dealing with Piping
  • Attaching the Collar

Module 4 – The Lining and Collar Continued

  • The Collar Canvas
  • Finishing the Piping
  • Pocket and Vent Facing
  • Closing the Lining

Module 5 – The Facing and Buttonholes

  • Taping the Fronts
  • Installing the Facing
  • Buttonhole Alignment
  • Tailored Buttonholes

Module 6 – The Sleeves

  • Drafting the Sleeves
  • Testing the Fit
  • Constructing the Piped Cuff
  • Inserting the Sleeves
  • Finishing the Collar
  • Hooks and Eyes
  • Final Pressing