Drafting Mid-19th Century Frock Coats

Would you like to learn how to draft a frock coat using a period system of the 1860s? In order to save you the many long hours of research and practice that I put in, I am offering an introductory course, where you will learn how to draft and fit an 1860s era frock coat. Many of the skills you will learn are not found in any books, but through much experimentation and practice, and have been included for your edification. If you have been using a commercial frock coat pattern in the past, this is a great way to improve on that. You’ll learn how to take measurements, draft the frock coat body, skirts, collars, and sleeves. You will then be taken through the fitting process, learning how to spot errors in your draft and correct them.

At the completion of this course, you will have a pattern perfectly fitted to your or a friend’s body, for use in many projects, and be able go through Devere’s drafting manual with a much better understanding of the process.

This is an intermediate level course. You should have some sewing experience sewing trousers or waistcoats, or women’s dresses. If you can follow simple instructions, you’ll have no problem with taking this course.

Course Syllabus

Module 1 – Introduction and Measurements

  • Welcome
  • About the Author
  • Drafting Supplies
  • Complete Measurement Guide
  • Custom Spreadsheet for Recording Measurements
  • Shopping and Supplier List

Module 2 – The Draft

  • Louis Devere’s System of Drafting
  • Breast Measurement Scaling
  • Using Graduated Rulers and the Tailor’s Square
  • Draft the Back, Forepart, and Side
  • Easy to Follow Modern Diagrams
  • Complete Set of Graduated Rulers

Module 3 – The Close Fitting Wrapper

  • Marking up and Truing the Pattern
  • Transferring the Pattern
  • Seam Allowances
  • Striking the Pattern
  • Constructing the Close-Fitting Wrapper

Module 4 – Fitting and Alterations

  • Use of the Supplementary Measures
  • Balance
  • Stooping and Erect
  • Thin and Stout Waists
  • Long and Short Bodied
  • Variations in Shoulders
  • Changes in Fashion
  • Common Misfits
  • Applying the Corrections

Module 5 – Completing the Body Draft

  • Drafting the Back Skirt
  • Drafting the Front Skirt
  • Drafting the Lapels
  • Drafting for Wool versus Linen
  • Double or Single Breasted Coat
  • Constructing a Full Muslin

Module 6 – More Pattern Pieces

  • Inlays
  • Pleat Pockets
  • Canvas
  • Linings and Padding
  • Facings
  • The Collar

Module 7 – The Sleeves

  • Drafting the Sleeves
  • Fitting the Sleeves